Cheese rolls

Mix everything very well. Don’t be alarmed to see that this starter is rather dry.

Cover it and let it sit in your kitchen overnight. By morning, it will be light.

Combine the yeast and water. When the yeast has dissolved, add the starter.

Add the salt. Mix all very well.

Add the flour, kneading it in to obtain a firm, smooth dough.

Put the dough in an oiled or greased bowl. Cover it and let it rise for 1 1/2-2 hours – until it has almost doubled in size.

Deflate the dough gently. Have a floured surface ready to receive it. Roll it into a rectangle 3/4″ high.

Spray a little warm water over the surface of the dough, and cover it with the grated cheese.

Roll it up, starting with the long side closest to you. I rolled my rectangle out on baking paper, and once it was covered with cheese, I used the edge of the paper to coax it into a log. Once rolled and lying seam-side down, I just nudged it back to the center of the paper and let it finish rising there.

Cover the cheese-filled log and let it rise for 60 to 90 minutes. It should be well-risen and light.

Preheat the oven to 425° F (190° C).

Cut the log vertically into 8 slices, or in 4 slices for larger portions, or in half for two loaves.

Place the slices, cut side up, on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Don’t worry about the open bottoms. They seal up in baking. Spray with warm water and bake immediately. Waiting around will deflate the rolls, and much of their charm is in their very light texture.

Bake 20 minutes if you have cut 4 or 8 slices; 35 minutes if you have 2 loaves.